I just rode an angkot
from the metal footstep up into the cab, my feet skimming the asphalt below me.
It's the best way to ride, just outside the claustrophobic confines of the
inner pleather benches, the wind whipping at your ponytail with one hand hooked
securely through the door latch. I love it. I will miss it. Secretly I
sometimes pray for overcrowding and endless traffic, just so the option is
available.
Luckily, Jakarta has both requisites in abundance, and as
I'm back in the Ibu Kota for tomorrow's
PLD, the prayers of several weeks were answered in my twenty minute hitch-hike
from Ambassador Mall (It is Sister Christensen's birthday and she is
celebrating by replacing all her old white shirts with new white shirts at her
half-way mark) to the Tebet warnet
(where everything is familiar again and the sunset fell rosy-red against the
golden mosque dome across the street and a circus' worth of children
followed me to the door—Hello, Mister! Hey, hey mister! Was you naim?). We
came in early today, P-Day a good excuse for a morning train across misty-blue
rice fields and a few hours main with
the JakSel sisters, so we've had a lovely afternoon of taxis and busses and angkot and the general to and fro that is the city.
Sometimes I think I miss it. Then we get stuck in traffic and I retract all
sentimental musings. Then I get off in Kampung Melayu and there is the gorengan
I love and the crumbling concrete corners
along blackened and broken storefronts and the bus named Naomi and it all comes
back again. It is interesting, every time I return. I get the smallest sense of
what it will be like, one day, to miss all of Indonesia—and I don't like it,
not one bit. It's a lot of emotions all wrapped up into something quite
impossible to clarify or catalog, except that I know it will hurt. A lot.
Remember how I grew up always pretending? Pretending that
I lived under gypsy shanties or plantation prerogative or one hundred years in
the past? Because actually I have always really wanted to experience another
day, another age. So for a long while—well, all of life, actually—I figured
my future was in Europe, in the cobblestoned byways and quaint remnants of
those imaginings, countries that still offered up my childhood intrigues though
centuries had now passed. That's what I thought. And then there it was,
Indonesia Jakarta. And who ever put me in Indonesia Jakarta? Or in Asia at all?
But something about reading that call, about knowing that future, made a lot of
sense. Like something I'd worked towards long ago but since forgotten, now
restored to me in new glory. It felt (and how cliché is this?) right. A feeling
which in itself didn't make sense, because, again: Jakarta? Indonesia?
And then I came here, and I loved it. From the very
beginning, I loved it. And as I continue to learn to love it even more, I'm
beginning to find pieces of myself I never even imagined to be buried here—in
the language, in the landscape, and then, this week, in the past. Because in
Indonesia, I don't get to simply observe the cobblestones or consider the
villages of days gone by. I am living them. Right now. The past in the present.
We live in labyrinthine neighborhoods I imagine would be akin to the London
Dickens knew. Occasionally we have to take a horse-drawn carriage to reach an
investigator. For fruit and vegetables and fresh cuts of meat we wander through
open markets amidst the urban sprawl, stench and sweet scent existing side by
side as sewer runs along crates fresh from the countryside. Yesterday I was
lugging our enormous kitchen kettle from stovetop to shower in my daily attempt
to make the mountain water somewhat less survivable in the early morning and I
just laughed out loud. Isn't this everything I always wanted to do? I am my own
version of 1900 House.
Which then leads me to another thing that we all know but
I usually forget: God knows us so much more fully and entirely than we ever
fully appreciate. A thought I will leave up to you to connect to all of the
above as Presiden wants us back at Senopati and this is it for now and until next week. Bandung
is the best, I am sleeping slightly better (five hours last night!) and on
Saturday nights I sing Beatles songs with the busker trio across the street
from the Church. Oh, Indonesia. I can't wait to share this all with you. I love
you.
Sister E.
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